As we know, the French are a peculiar lot. Nothing negative, they are just different and they do somethings very very well, for example, wines, cheeses, pate, infrastructure-their roads in their colonies are incredible, carved into Marquesas mountain faces, across volcanic plains etc. their aids to navigation always work as where other Pacific nations place tree branches on a reefs to warn you of danger, the French build a 20 story lighthouse that actually works!!!
However, the number 1 thing that they have excelled in for hundreds of years, drum roll please!!! Penal Colonies. Although they no longer function, the buildings, cells, holding blocks etc. all stand. Today they are covered with vines yet are a reminder of France's past and their inhumane treatment of political prisoners. They sent these wretches half way around the world, placed them on beautiful Pacific islands incarcerating them a arms length from beautiful sandy beaches, azure clear lagoons, swaying palms and no doubt, bare breasted maidens in grass skirts. Now if that wouldn't make you loose it, I don't know what would. Anyway, New Caledonia is a reminder of that past and 1 island in particular, the Isle of Pines, although 1 of the most beautiful, idyllic islands we have experienced in the south Pacific, is covered with these crumbling, old vine covered vestiges to the past and the complete disregard of how most powerful nations treated anybody with different political views in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Enough of my rant! I'll try to review some of the images on this posting. You will see a most stunning, architechual building with spires reaching to the sky, some images of brightly clothed elders milling about and some totems, a drum and some strange statues. This is the cultural centre in Noumea, the capitol of New Caledonia and is named after and dedicated to Jean Marie Tjibaou, a charismatic leader of the Kanak(native to New Caledonia) people who spearheaded a move for independence from France. It was a very moving and emotional afternoon for Linda and me as we toured the centre and learned about the Kanak's desires and efforts to get out from under the big colonial thumb of France. All these people have ever wanted to was be free and have self government as their neighbors in Vanuatu and Fiji have. During our visit we got "caught" between a group of elders who had come to make a traditional greeting and show their respect to the heads of the cultural centre(including a director who we believe to be the daughter of Jean Marie Tjibaou). As this group of over a hundred elders slowly marched to where the greeting party waited, Linda and I were sort of "mid field" between the two. I motioned to the welcoming party that we will be more than happy to get out of the way but they insisted we join them in their group and be part of the ceremony. We were speechless and swept up by the ceremony that followed(speeches and gift presentations by both groups in their traditional manner of doing so). We thanked everyone for allowing us the honour of joining them and slowly walked away in silence after it was over, pinching ourselves just to make sure that what had happened had actually happened. We'll never forget those moments and emotional electricity that flowed amongst the participants.
Other images show the beauty of the Isle of Pines. The blue green waters, trees creating a natural canopy over the road, the traditional fences of the Kanak people some carved, some plain. Another is a shot of Dave doing his monkey imitation on the path to the grotto where a queen of the Isle of Pines hid out for a long time avoiding retribution from an opposing tribe who obviously weren't too happy with something she did. There is also a shot of impromptu Canadian ingenuity when we had to make a French flag out of an old Canadian flag and white duct tape!! Another shows Linda and I standing in the shallows of a river mouth where it meets the sea. You walk for about a mile down a very shallow river to a spot where enormous boulders have created a natural swimming area where salt and fresh mix. Schools of brightly coloured fish dart about your legs as you stand or walk about.
We enjoyed New Caledonia very much as you can have the best of French culture, the local Kanak influence, beautiful islands and some of the most stunning coastal beauty found anywhere in this world. Linda and I also took 3 days, rented a car and got away into the countryside enjoying Grande Terre. We dined on great local fresh foods, experienced the rustic countryside, came into contact with the "locals" and enjoyed some time just for ourselves. It is truly and "overlooked" gem in the Pacific mainly visited by Australians due to its proximity. You never got the feeling that it was overcrowded or felt the political undercurrent of the very much alive independence movement that is still striving to finally beak free of their colonial chains.
We are now relaxing in Bundaberg Australia after a very fast and bumpy passage where we averaged over 6 knots for the entire 5 day passage. Great to be here. Time a major WALKABOUT. Love to all. John and Linda and hello from Dave.
