Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Tonga, truly a place where time stands still

Tonga will stay in our minds forever. This is the only country in all the Pacific that has never been governed by a foreign power. That fact permeates its way all through Tongan life. Their culture remains the same as it was over 1,000 years ago. Rank is everything in Tongan life. It exists everywhere, from the Royals to the nobility to the commoner, even within the family and the families in law. You see it in daily life where 1 Tongan does not look directly at another because it would be a sign of disrespect. There are different Tongan languages for the Royalty, the nobles and the commoners. Some keep their heads lower than others when in company of higher ranking people. There are "Talking Chiefs" in each village to communicate with other villages when rank has yet to be established. Time is the other great difference between us, Palangi(whites) and Tongans. They own their time as where time owns us. They will call on someone at 3 or 4 AM to discuss something because to talk to another and spend time with that person is more important than time. They will always be able to catch up on their sleep as you can see them sleeping in the middle of the day, like a babies, out like a light, just give a Tongan a patch of grass, a quiet corner(even a slab of cement) and he has a bed.
We are fascinated by Tongan life, culture, dress and way of thinking. We will miss it as it creeps pleasantly into you and mellows you like no other unnatural substance produced by man. Tomorrow, Friday, the 11th, we depart Vavau, the northern island group of Tonga and go south to the Hapaii group for the next 3 weeks. There are about approx. 50 islands, 2 with electricity and 1 with cars. Most of the villagers we will meet in the coming days cook over open fires, have no refrigeration(everything perishes quickly here) and for those reasons, as it has been for the last 1,000 years, all food is shared amongst the villagers. Tongans will feed a stranger if he passes by a house where there is food. Sorry, I'm digressing. We need to be at Tongatapu, the capitol of Tonga and main city of the southern group by the end of this month. Pat will rejoin us there from his time in New Zealand, we'll provision, fill up with fuel, water and head for New Zealand approx. Nov.5. ( we will await a weather window, cross our fingers and go) It is a fact that everybody making this crossing encounters 1 storm during the 8-10 day passage. Here's hoping ours is small, moves away quickly and causes no damage.
Love to all. John and Linda