The Voyage of the Don Pedro

Hello, I'm John, I'm a Cruisaholic

2010-11-04T01:02:00.000-07:00

The title may be strange but it is becoming a recurring thought. Every other cruiser in the meeting will answer, Hi, John, welcome to Cruisaholics Anonymous. Help, get me outta here!!!!
The reality of giving up this lifestyle is hitting daily and some of it is scary. By the time we get home in March of next year, I will have been away from Canada for 3 and 1/2 years and just over 3 of those years have been spent away from all the things we escaped when we left on this voyage. Imagine, no junk mail, no unsolicited telephone calls from people claiming to know what they could do with those vast sums of money that you really don't have. No surprising knocks on the door from people trying to sell you everything from religion to a set of knives. Out "here", everybody is so very friendly, everybody you pass on the street says hello, they go out of their way to help you and the only pressure comes from yourself. Fortunately, only 1 of us feels this apprehension about returning to our past lives. Linda has returned to Canada a number of times since we departed, visiting friends, painting again and picking up where she left off. Its just me who is feeling this anxiety. Just my paranoia, I guess.
Our beautiful, sleek comfortable home, Don Pedro, our faithful friend who has taken care of us in times of storms etc. is now officially for sale here in Australia and the reality that within a month I won't see her ever again is starting to hit...BIG time. I've had her since she was a baby and we have done so many things together, shared the highs, lows, up, downs, and have seen each other through the best and worst. We have covered about 15,000 miles, crossed and explored the great Pacific and she is now a part of the family. Over the last 2 weeks we have been polishing, cleaning, and varnishing her to the point where she looks like she did when I took delivery of her on October 24th of 2002. It is going to be a very gut wrenching and emotional day.
Some friends have returned home after cruising for a couple of years and found it difficult to adjust to what once was "normal". 1 couple wasted no time and bought another boat within 2 months of returning. Another friend is in the process of buying another boat and is wishing to "get back out here" ASAP.
Enough of me and enough of what might be. The last time I updated this was almost 5 months ago and many things have happened. Erin came to visit for a month and we had a blast. It was so great to spend a whole month with her. We sailed Don Pedro north from the Whitsunday Islands to Townsville(a 4 day journey) where we picked Linda up after her 2 month hiatus to Canada. Along the way we had some great sails and a surprise storm that struck just as we hitting the sack. We tucked behind Cape Upstart to get out of the moderate SE swell and wind, dropped the hook, fired up the BarBy and had a great meal, wine etc. Just as my head hit the pillow, the wind changed 180 degrees and the protecting shore was now the enemy. The wind quickly rose to almost 40 knots and the waves climbed steeply to good 5-6 footers as they came close to the shallows just behind us. At 1 point I told Erin to gather all her belongings, passport etc and get them ready to toss into the dingy that was now almost flying around the stern of the boat. The lightning started crashing around us and the walls of rain were coming at us horizontally. For the next 10 hours I "slept" at the navigation station with 1 eye on the radar as we had to monitor our position with relation the the ever present shore looming not more than 50-60 meters behind us.
Finally as dawn broke we were able to get the anchor up(after 3 attempts as it had dug in so much with all the tension on the rode) and head off to our next destination. The wind and waves were still up but the lightning and rain had abated. We had 30 knots winds abeam for the first 6 hrs of our journey. Needless to say the next night was an early one as we found a very protected anchorage and it remained calm for the night. Once we reached Townsville(Queensland Northern capitol) we had the pleasure of tying up in the heart of town, a friendly Cruising Club, $3. ice cold beers and still waters. Linda arrived a couple days later and we headed off to Magnetic Island only 8 miles from Townsville. Its a beautiful island with lots of great beaches, bays to anchor in, funky little restaurants, bars and things to do.
We now headed South back towards the Whitsundays and eventually to Mooloolaba where we now are preparing Don Pedro for her life under new stewardship. Along our 1,000 kilometer return route we had some great times(Monty's Beach Resort-#1 favorite place in OZ), decent weather(most of the time), great sails and anchorages. We will take those cherished memories with us as we slowly make our way back to Canada via Bali, Vietnam, Thailand and Hawaii. Mark my words, my friends, see and experience 1 of the last unspoiled places in this world, The Pacific Ocean, it's Nations and people before it turns into just another place. Fortunately, you have some time because of the vast expanses and remoteness of some of the islands, they are not within the easy reaches of the hoards of travellers that eventually make everywhere the same. We are so happy that some of you chose to join us along the way and experience this once in a lifetime voyage with us.
This will likely be the last entry to the Don Pedro blog so thanks for following our adventures. Keep your eyes peeled as a new boat and a new adventure in the Eastern Mediterranean might just be coming over the horizon within the next 2 years.
Love to all. See some of you next year when we finally return. Dr Freud, get your couch ready. I just might need you...and you..and you too! Help!
Adios for now, John and Linda

Sailing to and in Australia's Whitsunday Islands

2010-06-13T00:44:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Whtiehaven Beach, voted, again, the # 1 beach in the world. It has been the top beach for about 5 of the last 10 years. The sand is pure silica and is almost as fine a icing sugar. There is no trash and in our case, there was hardly a soul. It was ours, we danced, made sand angels, drank champaigne, jumped and goofed around-it just came naturally. It is pure heaven!

I'll let the photos do the talking. We left Mooloolaba May 19th(after Don Pedro's annual haulout-you see 2 shots of us covered in Avatar Blue) and took almost 2 weeks heading up the coast through gorgeous little islands with numerous protected anchorages and stunning beaches-all empty. Pick one-it's yours!! We did. For the last 10 days Linda and I, along with good friends, Dave and sis Delia who joined us for the last 4 days have been exploring and enjoying these beautiful islands and perfect sailing conditions. Also in this posting are some shots of our visit to the famous Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary in Brissy(Brisbane-Aussies can't resist abbreviating every word in existence!) Melbourne is Melbs, chardonnay is chardy etc, etc. et. There are a couple of shots of a beach and anchorage, they are of Airlie Beach which is the nerve center and tourist departure hub for the Whitsundays. Also there is an odd shot of 4 women looking down towards a men's urinal-great sence of humor these Aussies have-bizarre, naughty but quite funny. I couldn't resist including it. There are a couple of photos of the couples who we spent a lot of time in OZ with, Glen, Marilyn and Jaryd off of Tin Soldier who hail from White Rock and Bruce, Nicola and their daughters off of the good ship, BOB, yep, they named their boat, BOB. They are Kiwis-need I say more!! Great people. Sorry Bruce, the only photo I have of you has some guys index finger right in front of your handsome face!!Linda returned to Canada yesterday to be with and help a very close friend. She'll be gone for about 6-7 weeks so I'm just hangin out at Airlie Beach and in the Whitsundays waiting for my youngest, Erin, who is coming to visit the beginning of August. So, without further ado-who invented THAT word, ado-it sounds toopid!!! As they say here(even tho they know they will never see you again, "See ya later"!

Awaking from the Dream

2010-03-17T03:08:00.000-07:00

How did this all start? When did it begin. I, for one, am not sure. All I know is, I had this beautiful yacht, Don Pedro and my nephew, Patrick, made a comment about doing what I did many years ago with Amigo and if there was a chance I would want to do it again, he would "be there". I contemplated it for awhile, 5 seconds, maybe, then jumped at the thought. Making another ocean voyage, living on Don Pedro in the Tropics, exploring the South Seas, circumnavigating our globe.......wahinnes, sunshine, clear waters, swaying palms and exotic new things to be discovered.
This was all happening when I wasn't very sure that Linda would be spending the rest of her life with me or........ As it turned out, she got swept up into "The Dream".
For the mild mannerd, sweet natured and not so adventurous person that she is..or ..was, Linda not only accepted the idea, the possibility or whatever it was at that time, but also went with it, jumped in with both feet and the actuality of the dream was now hers too.
Well, here we are, in Australia, having crossed an Ocean that covers 2/3 of the world's surface, having experienced ancient cultures, having enjoyed jade lagoons, sweet scented breezes and people that you never could imagine. People untouched by the tentacles and temptations of our "modern world". Thank God for that!!! The Pacific remains, and will remain, a part of our world, too far, too inaccessible for the masses to ruin it with what we think is better for any people who have lived quite contrarely to our way. What we think is CIVILIZATION. They live happily with their few processions, pleasures and perceptions. Somtimes you wish you could be one of them.
Three years have passed since we pushed off our dock at Deep Cove, BC, sailed the West coast of America, wintering in Mexico, spending 21 days crossing to French Polynesia, traversing the Pacific, discovering a world we never could have imagined. The Marquesas, Tuamotus, Tahiti, Bora Bora, The Cook Islands, Nuie, The Kingdom of Tonga, New Zealand, Fiji, Vanuatu, New Caledonia and finally to here, Australia.
However, the realities of a circumnavigation have come home. The possibilities of losing your life at the hands of a jumpy, amateur wannabe pirate, cyclones, typhoons, uncharted reefs....yes, they are out there. From here on, if we were to continue, these realities are tenfold from where we have been. Also, we miss being nearer to and spending more time with our families and friends. And, it's not the same now that Patrick has moved on. We are so happy he has found something so much more suited for him than what he was doing before. He is employed in the crewing of Mega yachts and working in an industry that will carry him to the most exotic and interesting places in our world instead of sleeping in the crew cab of a truck at 40 degrees below zero in an oil field in northern Canada watching a surf DVD filled with bikini clad young vixens. Linda and I miss him very much, his smile, his laugh, antics.... Pat, I miss your shoulder..you carried a big weight with me..gracias amigo.
However, its more important to us for him to be happy doing what he is. Even if he were still with us, this adventure of ours would still be coming to the end it is.
It's time for a change, change is good and we are looking forward to it.
This June we will make a last swing back through the western Pacific revisiting Vanuatu, the jewel of the Pacific, New Caledonia, a wee bit of France with a Kanak native twist, also a jewel. If time and tide permits we may enjoy a brief visit to the Solomon Islands. After this last hurrah we will return to Sydney, Australia,(looking for crew...anyone interested? see some of New Caledonia then a 7-8 day crossing to Sydney, Oz.??). On arrival, we, sadly, will place our dear friend, our home, companion and protector, Don Pedro, on the market, say goodbye and "thanks for the memories". We will never forget that day! Donde voy, ahora?
March 17, 2010 St. Patricks Day Scarborough, Queensland, Australia Slante
Love to you all. John and Linda

On the road again!

2010-02-04T19:36:00.000-08:00

In 1 of the photos is a man, Andy, his son, Christopher, his daughter, Danielle and Linda standing near a termite mound. We met Andy while in the Mesquiline Islands in Vanuatu where he was rebuilding an old plantation house on a remote island he had purchased. During dinner that evening he invited us to come stay with him and his family on his "little" 1300 acre farm near Canberra. His farm is self sufficient for water and electricity. That is his solar array and wind generator in 1 photo and the massive battery bank in another. We went for a "bush" walkabout to view Wombat holes, kangaroos and the beautiful bush forest on his land. Our stay with him, his sweet wife Robyn and family was a definite highlight of our 4 week roadtrip. We also stayed in their lovely cabin at Mystery Bay on the coast after our visit with them on their farm. They are a shining example of just how friendly, outgoing and generous Aussies are.
The images of us driving a 4 wheel truck on a beach is from Bribie Island, just N of Scarborough. Jens and Norma who bought our friend's(Brett and Naomi) boat, Fearless,(who we had crossed the Pacific with) are also new aquaintences and they were kind enough to give us their 4 wheeler when they were away for a week. Driving on sand within 5-10 yeards from crashing surf was quite an experience. We had visions of getting stuck and watching the tide roll in over the truck. No worries, mate!!!!!
The city photos are of Melbourne, a most beautiful city with great food, fun, parks and waterfront. We took trams throughout the city and spent Australia Day there celebrating with a million Aussie hosts. 21 gun salutes, military flyovers, parades, barbies(not as in Barbie doll, Bar BQs). A great time was had by all. Small world department. The first person we met in Melbourne was from Victoria and her dad lives in Sidney(our Sidney) she was the on duty manager at the hotel we had booked into so she upgraded us to a mini suite!!! As they say here, Sweet As! Thats about it for now. Love to all. John and Linda

Greetings, Linda and I are on a 4 week driveabout of E and SE Australia between Brisbane and Melbourne. This is 1 BIG country. I'll expand later but will upload some photos today. We are presently on the coast staying in a friend's cabin about 150 miles from Canberra, Australia's capitol. The photos are from The Blue Mountains, Melbourne, an old hippie town called Nimbin and a wine area called Mudgee. Nimbin is unique in that the law turns a blind eye to the sale of drugs in the streets and alleys. This is the only place in Australia like it. In 1962 they had an Aquarian Festival in the mountains around Nimbin and nobody went home...ever..they just stayed and turned the town into a Shangrila of their own lifestyle. Meanwhile, back in the real world... Later. John and Linda

Life in the land of Oz Good as Gold!!

2009-12-22T15:58:00.000-08:00

G'day !
Sorry for the silence. Usually I am inspired to create a new posting by the beauty of the places we visit. This part of Australia(S. Queensland) doesn't possess that quality. Its a flat dry landscape with a few hills that they call mountains. Sugarcane fields everywhere. What is exceptional here are the people. Open and friendly doesn't come close to describing them. They go out of their way to welcome and help you and are as genuine as you can imagine. Good on ya!
We have been spending the last 2 months here slowly winding our way down the Sunshine coast to Scarborough, just N of Brisbane. Looking after the Don has been a priority with seeing some of the sites, visiting vibrant Brisbane with just living taking up the rest of our time. We bought a "beater" for $2,000. that we'll resell just before we push on in April and it manages very well to get us around in relative comfort. Our plans are to head S in mid Jan. to Sydney and Melbourne for about 3-4 weeks visiting the Blue Mountains and checking out Australia's wine growing areas. We feel this is an obligation we owe to all of you so we can help guide you when it comes to buying Aussie wines. Meanwhile, we are here, prepping for Christmas in 30+ deg heat-we even have a small tree with lights and rope lights strung along Don Pedro's lifelines.
Here's a brief description of some of the photos. Dave, our crew member from New Caledonia to OZ is pictured with his prize catch-he also caught the sea snake you see! There are many islands off of this coast and 1 of them has a man made reef of old wrecks, sunk to make a breakwater. We were anchored off of them during 1 of the numerous thunder/lightning/rain squalls that sweep over this area in the heat of the afternoons. There are some Tolkien looking trees and Linda on a boardwalk in Mary Caincross National Park-a beautiful 2 hr. stroll through a rain forest with giant eucalyptus, strangler figs and even small Wallabees(kangaroos). The brilliant red tree is a Flamboyant-they are everywhere. There are some shots of Brisbane as seen from 1 of the Rivercats(a ferry system plying the Brisbane river right through the heart of downtown). For $5. you can buy a ticket that allows you to travel all the ferries(fast river cats, small cross river boats) and all the buses in Brisbane for 24 hrs. The last 2 are of a typical pre storm cloud heralding a fresh breeze, a drastic drop in temps, high winds and torrential downpours and of Don Pedro doing it's best to slow down to cross the bar into Mooloolooba-we were going 7 knots with just that sliver of sail up and the engine in reverse. We were early and the tide was too low to cross the bar at the very narrow entrance to harbor. As it was, we had no more than 12 in. under the keel and had to keep an eye on surf type breakers that swept across us at the last minute. Straight to the bar after that one!!!
That's about it for now.
We are thinking of all of you and wish you all a very wonderful Christmas, a very happy, healthy and prosperous 2010. Take time for yourself, your dreams and hopes and spend time with the ones you love.
Life....doesn't it go by in a blink! Love, John and Linda

New Caledonia and the Isle of Pines

2009-10-28T08:14:00.001-07:00

Greetings one and all.
As we know, the French are a peculiar lot. Nothing negative, they are just different and they do somethings very very well, for example, wines, cheeses, pate, infrastructure-their roads in their colonies are incredible, carved into Marquesas mountain faces, across volcanic plains etc. their aids to navigation always work as where other Pacific nations place tree branches on a reefs to warn you of danger, the French build a 20 story lighthouse that actually works!!!
However, the number 1 thing that they have excelled in for hundreds of years, drum roll please!!! Penal Colonies. Although they no longer function, the buildings, cells, holding blocks etc. all stand. Today they are covered with vines yet are a reminder of France's past and their inhumane treatment of political prisoners. They sent these wretches half way around the world, placed them on beautiful Pacific islands incarcerating them a arms length from beautiful sandy beaches, azure clear lagoons, swaying palms and no doubt, bare breasted maidens in grass skirts. Now if that wouldn't make you loose it, I don't know what would. Anyway, New Caledonia is a reminder of that past and 1 island in particular, the Isle of Pines, although 1 of the most beautiful, idyllic islands we have experienced in the south Pacific, is covered with these crumbling, old vine covered vestiges to the past and the complete disregard of how most powerful nations treated anybody with different political views in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Enough of my rant! I'll try to review some of the images on this posting. You will see a most stunning, architechual building with spires reaching to the sky, some images of brightly clothed elders milling about and some totems, a drum and some strange statues. This is the cultural centre in Noumea, the capitol of New Caledonia and is named after and dedicated to Jean Marie Tjibaou, a charismatic leader of the Kanak(native to New Caledonia) people who spearheaded a move for independence from France. It was a very moving and emotional afternoon for Linda and me as we toured the centre and learned about the Kanak's desires and efforts to get out from under the big colonial thumb of France. All these people have ever wanted to was be free and have self government as their neighbors in Vanuatu and Fiji have. During our visit we got "caught" between a group of elders who had come to make a traditional greeting and show their respect to the heads of the cultural centre(including a director who we believe to be the daughter of Jean Marie Tjibaou). As this group of over a hundred elders slowly marched to where the greeting party waited, Linda and I were sort of "mid field" between the two. I motioned to the welcoming party that we will be more than happy to get out of the way but they insisted we join them in their group and be part of the ceremony. We were speechless and swept up by the ceremony that followed(speeches and gift presentations by both groups in their traditional manner of doing so). We thanked everyone for allowing us the honour of joining them and slowly walked away in silence after it was over, pinching ourselves just to make sure that what had happened had actually happened. We'll never forget those moments and emotional electricity that flowed amongst the participants.
Other images show the beauty of the Isle of Pines. The blue green waters, trees creating a natural canopy over the road, the traditional fences of the Kanak people some carved, some plain. Another is a shot of Dave doing his monkey imitation on the path to the grotto where a queen of the Isle of Pines hid out for a long time avoiding retribution from an opposing tribe who obviously weren't too happy with something she did. There is also a shot of impromptu Canadian ingenuity when we had to make a French flag out of an old Canadian flag and white duct tape!! Another shows Linda and I standing in the shallows of a river mouth where it meets the sea. You walk for about a mile down a very shallow river to a spot where enormous boulders have created a natural swimming area where salt and fresh mix. Schools of brightly coloured fish dart about your legs as you stand or walk about.
We enjoyed New Caledonia very much as you can have the best of French culture, the local Kanak influence, beautiful islands and some of the most stunning coastal beauty found anywhere in this world. Linda and I also took 3 days, rented a car and got away into the countryside enjoying Grande Terre. We dined on great local fresh foods, experienced the rustic countryside, came into contact with the "locals" and enjoyed some time just for ourselves. It is truly and "overlooked" gem in the Pacific mainly visited by Australians due to its proximity. You never got the feeling that it was overcrowded or felt the political undercurrent of the very much alive independence movement that is still striving to finally beak free of their colonial chains.
We are now relaxing in Bundaberg Australia after a very fast and bumpy passage where we averaged over 6 knots for the entire 5 day passage. Great to be here. Time a major WALKABOUT. Love to all. John and Linda and hello from Dave.

No Tsunami Sept. 30, 2009

2009-09-29T16:28:00.000-07:00

Greetings everyone,
Just a short note to say we are in Noumea, New Caledonia in a protected harbour and have seen nothing of today's tsunami. All is well. John and Linda

Vanuatu Going back into time, Dugongs, kava and volcanos

2009-09-07T18:36:00.000-07:00

It seems the further West we go, the more primitive are the conditions we encounter. THIS is what its really all about, adventuring, experiencing and getting to know and understand how other people in other parts of the world live. Here, they don't know or care about Michael Jackson, Paris Hilton or whatever. They know when to fish, harvest their vegetables, build their cooking fires and live their lovely, slower version of life. Vanuatu is the pearl of the Pacific as everything is "in your face", you can't avoid it..and you don't want to...its life how and it has been lived for thousands of years. Imagine, no Facebook, Dow Jones, fast food, TV, radio. How do these people survive, how deprived can they be??? They are the smart or lucky ones. We will take lessons from these people that will last us the rest of our lifetimes. Now, our news. We have been sailing N from the capitol, Port Vila for the last 3 weeks, visiting these primitive islands, absorbing as much as we can, having fun and as usual, meeting new people. The following photos feature the usual cast of us characters plus Seth and Jamie from Vancouver who have been paralleling our travels on their catamaran, Slapdash. We have been fortunate to encounter a friendly dugong which Jamie is seen swimming with, grind kava root, mix it with water, squeeze it through cloth mesh into a paint bucket and then consume it. After 2 or 3 "shells" you have to send a memo to your legs to move in sync with the rest of your body just to walk. Its fun and a little paralyzing-it is the standard drink in all of the Pacific. Vanuatu is known for their strong kava. It looks and tastes like dishwater, but, OH BOY!!! The primitive outrigger sailing craft is THE means of transportation as there are no roads in most islands. They visit other islands, relatives, trade etc. all by outrigger/dugout canoe. We met a master boatbuilder who would build us a 10-12 foot version(hewn from a new tree with an adze), complete with outrigger, and mast for $70. It would take him about 1 month to complete. In 1 photo there is a young girl fishing from her dugout- 1 of her daily duties-help feed the village. As usual, the Red Bastard had to come out and play. He met, Cedric, his counterpart on Salpdash. In two of the photos the volcano on the island of Ambrym is blowing off steam and the things I have on each side of my head are grapefruits-1/2 of one is a meal in itself. Right now we are pinned down by high winds(5 days and counting) on Espiritu Santo, the northernmost island in the Vanuaut chain. Hopefully the winds will subside allowing us to head south to Port Vila while visiting some more of the villages along the coasts of the various islands. Knowing that we probably won't pass this way again makes us appreciate what we are seeing and experincing all the more special. If anyone of you ever want to travel "off the beaten path" this is one place you won't find anywhere in the world and you WILL love it. Later, my friends. John Linda and Patrick

Adam's visit and our farewell to Fiji

2009-08-14T21:44:00.000-07:00

BULA ADAM!! Bula is Fiji's national greeting, you hear it everyday from most Fijian's lips, anytime of day or for any reason. We have found the Fijians to be a very friendly and open people. Adam has come and gone(back to Canada via Australia) and it was great to have him here. Linda was in heaven-so were Pat and I as he daily made the galley his own, concocting delicious dishes, cocktails etc. He should have his own eatery! We always eat well on Don Pedro but its a treat to have someone visit who has a passion for creating exotic and different dishes. We miss you, Adam, our taste buds miss you, come back anytime. The weather cooperated and allowed us to anchor for the night at Monoriki Island where castaway was filmed. It was dead calm so we took the grill to shore, lit 2 fires, 1 for cooking steaks, potatoes, onions and veggies over and 1 big one to sit around after dinner, looking at the millions of stars above and trying to imagine what it would have been like to actually be stranded there for 4 years. Wilson was not there but his buddy Spalding kept us company. Linda and Adam substituted Bar B Q sauce for blood to give him is face.
We had the whole gamut of weather while he was here so we sailed a lot amongst the Mamanuca and Yasawa chains of Fiji's beautiful west coast islands. His 3 weeks with us went too fast and suddenly he was off to Australia for a week then home to Canada after a 6 month absence.
We left Fiji 4 days later for our voyage to Vanuatu where we now are. The 531 miles took 3 days and 14 hours. We ran into good winds, squalls full of sheeting rain, and periods of lulls-typical South Pacific passage weather. We arrived at the capitol, Port Vila, early Friday morning, ran the gauntlet of Health/Quarantine, Customs and Immigration officials who were all very friendly. If you think your lives have too much paperwork in them, spend just 1 day in a third world country where EVERYTHING goes down on numerous reams of paper again and again. I need to rest my wrist and writing hand after each arrival-complain, complain, complain!!! As you know, its all worth it. Vanuatu was ruled for over 100 years by both the British and French-AT THE SAME TIME!!! You can imagine the cultural mix(and clashes). Charming to say the least. So far, so good as we are enjoying the Melanesian and ex pat population. Vanuatu has a fantastic beef industry and the French restaurants serve a great steak au poivre so we are in culinery heaven. We will be here for another 5-6 weeks before heading for New Caledonia and on to Australia. Don Pedro continues to turn out to be a great cruising boat and home. She is sea kindly, strong, spacious and quite fast-a great combo. Thank you, Beneteau-you build good boats!
Thats it for now. Love to all. John Linda Patrick....oh yeah, The Red Bastard

Monica and Adam come to call

2009-07-31T23:59:00.000-07:00

We do meet the most interesting people along our way. That is the most different and great thing about cruising compared to living in 1 place, you meet so many people who share the same interests as you and are doing it in a similar manner. We also meet fellow travellers from backpackersto jet setters and all forms of travel in between. At 1 island, we went ashore for a predinner cocktail at a back packer resort and met a young Norwegian woman, Monica. We were all so taken by her natural, sincere charm and dry Scandinavian humor that we invited her to join us for dinner on Don Pedro. By the end of the evening, we had asked her if she wished to travel with us for awhile. I guess we all got along famously because she was with us for 2 weeks and at the end, were sad to see her go. Monica was a breath of fresh air, sang, played the guitar, cooked, did the dishes, kept Pat in line and shed a light on Norwegian history, culture, humor, music etc. Following are some photos of the time she spent with us, the places we went and some people we met along the way. She departed on the same plane that brought Adam(Linda's youngest son) back to us from his 5 month stint in Australia. He has been with us for 2 weeks and will be departing for Canada in 5 days. We have had a blast with him and will be sad to see him go too. EVERBODYS LEAVING US!!!! Next week we depart for the enchanting, exotic Isles of Vanuatu after being here in Fiji for the last 60 days. We have loved every minute but are ready to move on.

Exploring Fiji's Yasawa Islands

2009-07-03T15:10:00.000-07:00

Off of Fiji's west coast is a chain of islands known as the Yasawas. They can be reached in a 5-6 hr sail from our "hub", Denerau Marina, on the main island of Viti Levu. The Yasawas, are a bit of a paradox, having small villages with no electricity or running water yet there are also a couple of mini resorts where guests spend anywhere from $175.-$4,000 per night, yes, $4,000./night. That includes almost everything!!!! I would hope so. However, they are beautiful, some mountainous, some low, yet all have beautiful beaches, crystal clear lagoons and are very lush. Most of the photos on this posting are from these islands. One photo shows a number of people on a beach including Linda, Pat and myself. The man in the center, Moses, is the owner of the land and chief of the village that we anchored off. In Fiji, when you visit a new island, you have to perform, Sevusevu, a ceremony where you present a parcel of Kava root to the head person and ask for his blessing to spend time in his "area". This is done by placing the offering of Kava at his feet and asking him in Fijian if you are allowed to spend time in his area. You do this as opposed to handing it to him so he has the option of saying NO! This never happens. Once he accepts it and goes thru his welcoming ritual, he now accepts the responsibility for you while you are in his "domain". Kava is a plant whose root has a numbing effect on your body. Too many "shells" of this and you need your friends to supply you with a substitute pair of legs to get you home. You have trouble walking but you are very happy about it. It has been used in welcoming ceremonies in the South Pacific for almost 2,000 years. Great stuff !!! Another photo is of Aquarius, a very lovely motoryacht that Pat will be working on for 11 days starting mid July. Thats it for now, next time I'll introduce you to Monica, a young, charming Noirwegian woman we shanghaied from a backpacker resort on one of the outer islands. She has been travelling with us for a week and her main job is to keep Pat in line-she has no problem with this! She has become a good friend and travelling companion. Until later, John Linda and Patrick PS Frank, I'm the guy with the machete in the group photo-I haven't changed a bit in the last 30 years....

Some New Pix- New Zealand and Fiji

2009-06-19T03:00:00.000-07:00

Some new photos courtesy of Linda. Just in case you thought that all we did was Party Party Party!

New Zealand to Fiji and thensome

2009-06-11T17:47:00.000-07:00

Greetings once again. Our 8 day voyage to Fiji from Opua, NZ had everything from storms to calms, zero wind to 39 knots/hr., flat seas to 12-15 ft breakers. The Southern Ocean threw almost everything at us and we and Don Pedro did just fine. Beneteau builds very good boats, Unfortuatly, friends of ours, Wendy, Steve and their son Allen on a J 45, called Elusive had to abandon their boat about 300 miles N of NZ due to an undetectable leak that filled Elusive with water. Luck had it that another boat was only 45 min. away and was able to come to their rescue. They escaped with their passports and a few personal belongings. Sadly their cruising dreams ended there. It reminds us just how fragile our existance is. They are recovering at an island resort just off the Fiji coast where many cruisers have come to give their frienship and support.
After a grueling Customs, Immigration and Health(small under the table gifts($$$ and wine) check in at our first port of call, Lautoka, on the west coast of Viti Levu(main island of Fiji), we stayed at the Denerau Marina and resort complex to reprovision, clean Don Pedro and treat ourselves to some land based time at the great restaurants and bars. From there we headed to the nearest island group, the Mamanucas for some needed R & R. The 80 deg. crystal clear water and sandy beaches were a treat after 6 months of being away from the Tropics. The 2 groups of islands off the westcoast of Fiji, the Mamnucas and the Yasawas are pearls with famous places like the Blue Lagoon(yup, both films were shot there) and Tom Hanks Castaway island, Monuriki. We plan to visit the island to see if Pat can make fire rubbing 2 sticks together.
We will be in this area for another 6-7 weeks before heading off to Vanuatu and the Soloman Islands. Some of the photos here are self explanatory-some are unexpanable and some we just don't want to talk about. However, if pressed, we will answer every(well, almost every) question.
Love to all. John Linda and Patrick(Chinggutchook-Last on the Mohawks)

Just livin...Now leavin

2009-05-16T20:44:00.000-07:00

Greetings and my deepest apologies for not updating this sooner. Since our collective families have departed(Linda's sons and my daughters) we just started doing normal every day things. In other words we got up, went about our stuff enjoying the days and evenings and here we are now 2 months later. Linda did go back to Sidney and spent 7 weeks enjoying her time with family and friends. She had a great time. In the meantime, I "toiled" daily, either on Don Pedro, or on a golf course(of which there are many inexpensive, great municipality courses that average $20-25/round. 1 little gem in particular(18 holes, tree lined, meandering and undulating fairways,etc. etc.) cost $14 per round with $2. beers waiting you in the funky, friendly clubhouse. Oh wo was me, what a wonewy twime!!! I also met some great new people and just hung out amongst the boat folk.
When Linda returned, we were asked to look after a friend's 20 acre farm complete with 3 horses and 6 cows for 10 days. We loved it. I had to feed the horses hay once a day and Linda looked after the dog, Ruckus(appropriately named) and Spook the fat, black lazy cat. Fortunately, the cows looked after themselves. For the first time in almost 2 years, we had a fireplace, big flatscreen TV(still nothin on!!), stereo, big bed with a gorgeous view and a bathtub. YAHOOOOOOOOOOO!!
However, we are now back to reality, on the boat, in the Opua Marina and waiting for a weather window to depart for Fiji. This will be an 8-9 day trip at not the best time of the year. All of us had to wait here until Cyclone season ended. This meant that Fall came and now the New Zealand winter is about to begin. It is cold and has been raining about 60-70% of the time during the last 6-8 weeks. It also means that strong systems(lows and highs) that sweep across the Tasman Sea between here and Australia will affect the area we will be sailing through for the first 5-6 days of the trip. Many boats have left in the last 2 weeks and now we waiting our"turn" to head out.
I will be sending Theresa emails from sea via Sailmail and she will send them along to whoever wants to know how we are doing. I'll update the blog once we are settled in Fiji and I have a cold rum/fruit juice concoction in my hand, my ass on a warm beach and my toes in the azure, warm waters.
Love to all. John, Linda and Pat the birthday boy(38 yesterday...Chris, Happy Birthday to you, Neph!)

Don't know how this escaped me but we have to tell you. New Zealand is 1 of the greatest countries on this planet. If it wasn't so far from family and friends, we could live here in a heartbeat. The Kiwis are a great bunch of people, warm, genuine, friendly and helpful. Didn't meet a bad one!!! NZ also has great wines and food and our doller goes a long way. We have enjoyed our stay very, very much and would return if the opportunity presents itself.

Marlborough Wine Festival then North Island and home

2009-03-19T17:18:00.000-07:00

Got 1. 1 to go

Well, I have just spent the last 45 min. trying to upoad the last 2 photos and for some reason, Internet Explorer won't let me so you'll have to wait another day. I'll try to publish this now without editing it so please forgive the typos etc. Love to all and I'll try to complete this soon. John OH yeah, remember, start reading this from the last posting. Someday I'll get the order right. J
Erin left the 23rd of Feb. so Linda and I had 2 weeks together on Don Pedro in Whangarei before she left for a 6-7 week trip back to Seattle, Sidney, Saltspring etc. Since her departure, Dave(good friend of Pat's and new crew member for Fiji, Vanuatu and beyound) and I brought Don Pedro north to Opua(our landfall when we arrived in NZ) where we will be until mid May when we depart for Fiji. Dave is the guy relaxing, enjoying his birthday the day we returned north. I have added a wind generator lately that can be seen in the other photo.

There was a great Irish bar next to our hotel, Father Ted's. Brother, you were in our thoughts. This place would suit you fine.
After we saw Adam off, we returned to Whangarei to move back onto Don Pedro and spend Erin's last 3 days at the beach, saying goodbye to Pat and spending as much time together as we could. It will be a long time till we see together again. We spent a day trying to surf,(Pat did OK) enjoying the sun, sand, waves and cold beer.

From Napier we went to Lake Taupo which I descibed earlier when Kristy and I visted it. We spent a lovely day swimming in the wonderfully warm fresh water, enjoying our lakeside motel with a great view and bar B Q area. Almost all the motels in this country have complete kitchens and mutual Bar BQ areas where you not only can grill your steaks etc but have the chance to meet other travellers. The next day we returned to Auckland to spend Adam's last night before he headed off to Melbourne Australia in search of work and a new adventure. I just got an email fom Linda saying he is going thru a trial period at the Silk Road, one of Melbourne's top restaurants. It has a great website if you want to check it out. Hope you get the job!! I had to include a photo of Adam's idea of organised unpacking and arranging of the contents of his suitcase. He finds it easier to find things if he lays them all out in the hallway of our room. Sorry, Ads, had to do it!!

Well, after Erin had personally overseen the loading of the buses(ask her!), we headed back to our hotel to recuperate. A GREAT time was had by all. We then returned to the north Island the next day for a vist to the Te Papa Museum in Wellington where there was an Impressionest Exibition of Monet and some of his comtempories. It is the National Museum of New Zealand and was not to be missed. On to Napier in the Hawkes Bay wine region for a day of more tasting and enjoying the art deco buildings that Napier is known for. Adam and Linda had to make a pilgramege to the Kim Crawford winery to pay homage to their grapes...a. good stopover.

Greetings,
When I last left off, we were departing Queenstown, our southernmost stop. Now we headed north along the east coast to Akaroa, the site of an early French enclave where the road signs are still en Francais. It is in the natural "bowl" of an old volcanic crater(the photo of of the sloping hills and sheep with the water in the background). After a delightful day and scruptous meal, we headed north again for Blenhem and the Marlborough Wine Festival. The day dawned(never saw it) cloudy but by the time we hit the Festival, the sun was out and the weather could not have been better. We received our souvenier issue wine glass and it's "around the neck holder". Great thing, you never loose it and its always right under your nose. Everybody should have one. There were approx. 30 wineries(we tried to taste them all-lost count!), great food and fantastic live music with some of New Zealand's top bands and individual entertainers. No details will be issued about the eventual state of the 4 of us and we need to protect what reputations we have left-Linda behaved herself, Adam and me too....however!!! We all had a memorable, wonderful day..youtoo, Erin.

Linda, Erin, Adam and I do the South Island

2009-02-12T11:49:00.000-08:00

As usual, I've done this from back to front, from now to then etc. I'll do better next time. We are now a day away from the Marlborough wine growing area and the Valentines Day Wine Festival. 9 hours , 50 wineries, 30 restaurants and live music all day long. We put on 3300 km in the last 12 days and have seen just a wee bit of this wonderful place. We could be here for a year and not see it all. Thats it for now. Take care of yourselves. John, Linda, Erin and Adam

It seems that every corner you turn in NZ brings another remarkable view. It's difficult to show you the beauty of this country because its all so beautiful. We head S to places like Nelson, Christchurch, Twizel, Queenstown, Oamaru, Akaroa and Kaikora. We see Mt. Cook, New Zealands highest mountain and home to The Sir Edmond Hilary Climbing Centre(he was the first to summit Mt. Everest), we see Emerald Lakes, valleys of rolling hills and ranges of striking mountains with every turn in the road. There are a couple of photos taken from our apartment in Queenstown, the adventure capital on NZ. Too scenic to describe.

We stuffed the Honda's trunk to overflowing and headed South. First stop was S of Lake Taupo where we spent the night in a famous fishing resort that had a beautiful winding river with great swimmin holes. So refreshing after a long days drive. Our routine is now, get up, coffee, light breakfast, DRIVE, DRIVE, buy and taste wine, find a place to spend the night, drink wine, snack, make or go out for dinner, drink more wine and go to bed. Not bad!!!

First stop, Auckland to say goodbye to Kristy, gather Adam and say goodbye to our good friends, Kay and Craig. Pat and I met them at the Equator while they were enroute to French Polynesia from San Diego on their 28', yep, 28' boat, Little Wing. We have spent many a time together since then travelling together through the Pacific and we are sad to see them return home. They will however, be buying a bigger boat and we will no doubt see them again. Craig treated us to one of his famous Rants before we all said goodbye. I don't have a clue what he was "on about" but he was funny.

Family come to visit and tour New Zealand

2009-02-11T21:19:00.000-08:00

Greetings. The last 2 months have been filled with a number of family paying us visits and lots of travel through this temporarily adopted country of ours. First Linda's oldest son, Andy and his lovely lady, Bronwyn dropped in after spending some time in Australia. They borrowed Pat's car, toured around the North Island then came back to our shack in Whangarei for a week of relaxation before Bronwyn took off for Thailand and Andy returned to Victoria. My eldest, Kristy was next as she flew in from Korea where she is on a yearlong quest to teach the young Koreans to speak Engrish. Sorry, couldn't resist-Racist!!! First however, Don Pedro needed our attention as she had not been hauled out for 17 months and badly needed some TLC. Pat and his friend, Dave waxed the hull while Robert Auklet(famous boat painter who has painted the hulls of the last 4 New Zealand America's Cup contenders) and his crew spray painted the bottom. I had won a raffle for having this done by them-first time in Don Pedro's history that Pat and I didn't have to paint the bottom. YAHOOO!!!
After Kristy and Linda helped with the haulout( wax on, wax off, wax on, wax off), the two of us headed off to the wine area of Hawkes Bay on the North Island, rented bikes and rode 18 Km thru the vines, tasting, lunching, buying and getting a bit of exercise along the way. We also criss crossed the island visiting Lake Taupo,(largest NZ lake and 1 of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere), funky, laid back Raglan(surf capital made famous in the film, Endless Summer), Rongoriro National Volcano Park where Mt. Doom(The Lord of the Rings) is located. Check out Kristy's trekking outfit, a summer dress and flip flops on a lava rock path. She is a Fashionista. Then on to Gisbourne(surprise, surprise, more wineries), Auckland to pick up Erin(she flew in from Montreal) and back to Whangarei for a farewell get together with Linda and Pat. Thats Erin doing her Ms. Napkinhead immitation. Linda's youngest son, Adam also arrives at this time from Victoria and after being with us in Whangarei for awhile he heads to Auckland to spend time with Bronwyn before she flies off to Thailand then joins Linda, Erin and I to tour the South Island after seeing Kristy off to the airport for her return to Korea. Sounds confusing I know with all these comings and goings.
Kristy and I had a great time travelling together and I appreciated the time with her so much. I get to visit with both of them so seldom with this trip and the fact that they are now living their own lives so far away that every moment is so precious and treasured.
The photos are in reverse order of the text but by now I am confident that you can figure it all out. As there are so many photos, I am doing this in 2 postings. Hopefully the next 1 will follow in the next few days. Love to all, be cool in this screwed up world-it will return to normal. JL, hang in there my friend, you are in my thoughts daily. DI, write me!!! Theresa, thanks for your help with the blog. John

2008-12-28T16:08:00.000-08:00

Where do I start? New Zealand at last after 15 months and approx. 13,000 nautical miles. This place is as close to Heaven as you can get. It's like Canada and the US in the 50's full of trusting, friendly people ,all with great attitudes and a sense of humour. The people and the countryside are beautiful. I'll try to briefly describe some of the photos I've just posted. The shot of a bungalow, silver car and Linda is our rented place about a 5 min. walk from Don Pedro that is moored in the Whangarei town basin. It's new, charming and quiet with great landlords who are also sailors. Pat and his BMW are in there. We both got 2nd hand cars, ours is a great little Honda Accord, $1900. We will resell it for at least $1500. after using it for 8 months..not bad. There is a pastoral shot of horses and lounges under a tree. This is the "farm" of Doug and Helen, friends of Kay and Craig from "Little Wing" whose photos is also here. We had a Xmas Eve party with our boating friends John, Nancy and their girls from Meridin, Glen, Marilyn and son,Jaryd, from Tin Soldier. Also Pat, Andy,(Linda's oldest son) and Bronwyn, his partner(she's in the Santa hat). Marilyn is the one dancing with the camera, work it baby, work it!!! There are also some pix of the trails around our bungalow as NZ is a country of "trampers"(walkers) and there are great hiking trails around every city and in all parts of the countryside. You are never more than 10 minutes from a god "tramp"- even in downtown Auckalnd.
It's difficult to know what to show you as every corner of every road has beautiful pastoral, coastal and mounain views. Oh yeah, Pat continues to enjoy his job, helping run a small Bay of Islands charter sailboat company, teach sailing and doing general dock work.
Well, the battery is dying and its time to go. Oh yeah, we haven't met a New Zealand wine we don't like and they are CHEAP, $10. gets you a very very good bottle. Until the next time. Love to all. John, Linda and Pat

Farewell Tonga Hello Kiwi Land

2008-11-15T19:46:00.000-08:00

Last but not least, it was time to party party party and so we did when we got to Pangaimotu, the little island off of Nukualofa. All of us, "yachties" ended up here to await a weather window for our departure to New Zealand. Its an analysis paralysis situation where we all study the weather, maps, consult our hired meteorlogical gurus and discuss it over and over and over. In the meantime, we party. We were fortunate to be invited to the 60th B day party of the owner of the island. He is related to the royal family and was given the island by the previous King of Tonga more than 20 years ago. His wife, Big Mama is in the photo with the Red Bastard. There he goes again, rubbing shoulders(and noses) with the nobility. She, Big Mama, created a great bar/restaurant/ yacht club complete with a sand floor. They do eveything for you including taking your fuel cans, water cans, propane tanks etc to town, filling them and returning them to you. They, like most Tongans, are warm, sincere and are wonderful to spend time with. It was a great time spent with all the other boaters we have met and travelled with since Mexico. There are boats here also from Germany, Sweden, Finland, England, Denmark, France, The Netherlands, Brazil etc etc etc. Alas, our window opened, we departed and here we are, safely in Kiwi Land. Pls remember that you can add a comment to the blog by clicking on "comments" at the bottom of each entry and type us a message. We'd love to hear your thoughts. Love to all. John Linda and Pat

1 of our favorite islands was Ooleva where we found that bright orange cook shack, part of a backpackers "resort" What a setting, no one for miles except us boaters, nothing to do but stroll the golden sandy beaches, sun, snorkel, eat, sleep and .....
Thats where the night shot was taken under a full moon with clouds scuddying by and the palms waving at the night.

The market photos were all taken on a typical market day in Nieafu.

Well, the time had come to say farewell to Tonga after 3 months of some of the most beautiful scenery and people. The images I will add to this are from our last days in Nieafu, the center of the northern islands, the 2 weeks+ we spent sailing from there through the Hapaii Group and on to Nukualofa, the capitol and main town in the Tongatapu Group. After a great week anchored off Pangaimotu Island(Big Mama's Yacht Club) we left for New Zealand. The trip took just shy of 8 days of which we had to motor 35% of the time anf the rest was a great sail with 3 days of 25+ knot winds and waves of 10-12 feet. At present I'm updating this from a marina in Opua, NZ. It is just heaven here with great genuine, warm, sincere people who all must have been born with both a zest for life and a sense of humour. Kiwis are a great bunch.
The village photos are from the very remote Hapaii Group.1, maybe 2 islands had electricity, 1 had vehicles but there were lots of curious kids everywhere. Thanks to Gloria and Jon Bentzen, we handed out at least 3-400 pens and pencils to the school teachers on these islands. School supplies are in great demand. The shots of what we may consider shacks are their houses, raised off the grounds so the pigs and chickens have shelter and it keeps any rodents away. They lead the simplest of lives, cook over open fires and share in the abundant wealth of the sea and orchards.

Tonga, truly a place where time stands still

2008-10-08T22:53:00.000-07:00

Tonga will stay in our minds forever. This is the only country in all the Pacific that has never been governed by a foreign power. That fact permeates its way all through Tongan life. Their culture remains the same as it was over 1,000 years ago. Rank is everything in Tongan life. It exists everywhere, from the Royals to the nobility to the commoner, even within the family and the families in law. You see it in daily life where 1 Tongan does not look directly at another because it would be a sign of disrespect. There are different Tongan languages for the Royalty, the nobles and the commoners. Some keep their heads lower than others when in company of higher ranking people. There are "Talking Chiefs" in each village to communicate with other villages when rank has yet to be established. Time is the other great difference between us, Palangi(whites) and Tongans. They own their time as where time owns us. They will call on someone at 3 or 4 AM to discuss something because to talk to another and spend time with that person is more important than time. They will always be able to catch up on their sleep as you can see them sleeping in the middle of the day, like a babies, out like a light, just give a Tongan a patch of grass, a quiet corner(even a slab of cement) and he has a bed.
We are fascinated by Tongan life, culture, dress and way of thinking. We will miss it as it creeps pleasantly into you and mellows you like no other unnatural substance produced by man. Tomorrow, Friday, the 11th, we depart Vavau, the northern island group of Tonga and go south to the Hapaii group for the next 3 weeks. There are about approx. 50 islands, 2 with electricity and 1 with cars. Most of the villagers we will meet in the coming days cook over open fires, have no refrigeration(everything perishes quickly here) and for those reasons, as it has been for the last 1,000 years, all food is shared amongst the villagers. Tongans will feed a stranger if he passes by a house where there is food. Sorry, I'm digressing. We need to be at Tongatapu, the capitol of Tonga and main city of the southern group by the end of this month. Pat will rejoin us there from his time in New Zealand, we'll provision, fill up with fuel, water and head for New Zealand approx. Nov.5. ( we will await a weather window, cross our fingers and go) It is a fact that everybody making this crossing encounters 1 storm during the 8-10 day passage. Here's hoping ours is small, moves away quickly and causes no damage.
Love to all. John and Linda

Tonga Times

2008-09-15T02:53:00.001-07:00

Greetings everybody. Not sure how this posting will turn out as I'm trying to insert text next to the appropriate photos. The first 7-8 pix are an assortment of "nights out" at some Tongan establishments, taken way too late into the festivities. No one should be allowed to bring a camera out at that stage!!! There is also a night shot completely lit by lightning and a sunset thru a squall that hit us in an anchorage,. The wind went from 5 MPH to 40 MPH in less than 60 seconds! Anyway, enjoy the photos, as usual, use your imagination and do double click some of the more interesting ones to get the true scale.

Boys will be boys. Pat, Ian and Adrian spent most of their afternoons "scurfing" around the harbor on Pat's board behind the dingy belonging to "Locheil", a 106 ' Bill Gardner design ketch. They couldn't get me on that thing for all the money in the world.

Party Party Party. Noas, the 104' sloop that Pat is crewing on threw an impromptu costume party at 1 of the anchorages one evening. Everybody used their imagination as you can see. The captain and host is the guy with the pink protrusion between his legs-he's really a responsible, great guy... honest. Needless to say a very good time was had by all and no one moved too early the next morning..as a matter of fact, nobody moved the next day! There are a couple on interior shots to show you the scale inside this yacht. Poor Pat, he gets all the shitty assignments! In 1 photo you can catch him leering at a fellow crewmember, Miss Coconuts! The tall beauty in some of the shots with Linda and me is our new friend, Rebecca from Sydney Australia. She was sat at our table 1 night in a restaurant as there was no other seat available. We got along so well that we invited her to sail with us for a weekend She is a charming young woman who had come to Tonga to swim with the whales-she did this for 11 straight days. She has aspirations to become a marine biologist 1 day. We are sure she will achieve that with no problem.

Pat's got a new ride now that he is crewing for a month on Noas, a beautiful 104' sloop bound for Fiji, Vanuatu and on to New Zealand. He'll rejoin us in Fiji for our trip to New Zealand at the end of October. The dancers and long table of food were at a feast we went to to experience a true Tongan celebration. The school kids were great singers and dancers and there was more than enough delicious food(fingers only-no utensils) to feed an army.

The images of marching bands, people waiting, walking etc were part of the crowds that were present for the coronation ceremonies for the new King, George Toupou 5. He showed up at about 5 % of the events held in his honour, never acknowledged anybody or anything done on his behalf. We never saw him and most Tongans never saw him. He is not appreciated as was his father, the King before him. Some say he is not long for the throne. We enjoyed the parade, the music, the festivities and the ambiance despite not seeing "His Highass"!

These images are of a sea level cave that we entered in Mark's(the guy at the wheel looking like he's going 100 MPH) tender(dingy). You can go in about 100 ft and it has an opening to the sky once you are inside. You can also snorkel into it. Quite interesting. Mark is one of the boaters we have known since Mexico. He crossed the Pacific alone in his 57 Nordhaven trawler-quite a feat.

This is Adrian "Knievel" launching himself off of his parents 106 ft sailboat by way of swinging off the bow with a surfboard attached to his feet and having a ski boat take off to keep his momentum. It took him 3 tries. Go Adrian-to the hospital to have your head examined!!!

Bora Bora to Tonga Photos

2008-08-13T19:24:00.001-07:00

Bora Bora to Tonga

2008-08-12T19:17:00.000-07:00

Greetings. Well, its been almost 5 weeks since the last update and we have covered quite a bit of territory. We departed Bora Bora and said good bye to French Polynosia after being there for 90 days. It was a phenomenal experience despite being the most expensive place I've ever been to in the world. Our next leg was to Rarotonga, capital of the Cook Islands. We were a little apprehensive as the harbor is very small and can be exposed to N or NW winds. Sometimes the harbor master tells you to keep going(after 5 days of trying to get there) and head for Niue, the next stop. No problema, there was plenty of room and we were welcomed with open arms. Officialdom in F. Poly was scary, not so, here. The harbor master did all the paperwork in 5 minutes and we were free to roam the country. We loved it so much we stayed for 11 days. Pat and I rented scooters for 8 days. We had to get Cook Islands drivers licenses which took $15. NZ, a photo and a 5 min. test drive around the block. The scooters gave us the freedom to roam wherever and whenever which we did, everyday. Linda and I found a little resort 1/2 way up the main mountain on the island to get of the boat for awhile. Pat turned Don Pedro into a party palace..amongst other things, I'm sure!! We met great people, forged new friendships and had a wonderful time. It was also much less expensive the F. Poly. AND they spoke English.
Next it was on to the very small island nation of Niue(2 day sail from Rarotnga). Both of these countries depend on New Zealand for aid. Canada also contributed aid to rebuild the high school after a cyclone destroyed close to 90% of the homes and buildings on the island in 1999. The thing that made Niue 1 of our favourite stops was the people. The friendliest people we have EVER met in any of out travels anywhere. The Cook Islands were more beautiful and dramatic and the people were very very friendly, but the people of Niue are unbelievably friendly. The island is heavily wooded and flat but there are caves, caverns and chasams to be seen just off the main roan so we rented a beater(bush car) and headed off to explore. Niue had a King until the early 1900's and some of these chasams were used by the royals for bathing as the sea comes into them from 1 end and fresh water flows into the other end from underground streams. The only downside to Niue is the lack of a good harbor. The "Yacht Club" has placed mooring buoys to promote yachts to visit. It is a bit rolly but safe. As there is no beach and a surge from the waves, the only way to get ashore is to make a bridle for your dingy and hoist it out of the water onto the dock using the hoist supplied by the "yacht club". The yacht club's clubhouse is the local ice cream parlour and you can become a lifetime member for $20. NZ. Needless to say we enjoyed our short time on Niue and were sad to depart. Tonga was next( a 2 day sail).
We are now in the very well protected harbour of Nieafu(capitol of the Vavau or northern island group). Its a small, very old, a bit rundown and funky town-just what we like. A place to hide from the IRS or whoever may be after you. Tonight we are off to Tonga Bob's Cantina for the weekly Wednesday night Drag Queen show. Tonga's new(58 yrs. old) King is due to arrive here in Nieafu next week and the town is in a tizzy. No one can get any supplies from the main island because all the supply ships are filled with stuff for the King's visit. (Cars, security stuff, food, booze, women whatever) He owns and runs everything so you just gave to grin and bear it until his visit is over and life returns to normal. We have been to the outer islands(there are lots) for the last 3 days and there are beautiful golden sandy beaches everywhere, reefs for snoreling and palm trees for shade. It's an ideal cruising ground so we'll be here for another 5-6 weeks before braving the 10 day sail down to Kiwi land NZ. The great thing about this island group is all these outer islands are no more than 2 hrs. for Nieafu so we can come back anytime to reprovision.
Thats it for now. I'll upload some photos to go with this text. You will see a whole bunch of silly adults in a dingy built for 1 person. We had a dingy reggata and sail race in Bora Bora and tried to see how many we could get in a 1 person dingy-the answer is 7 people. It stayed afloat for about 30 sec. before going under. No prblema-the water temp was 85 and we were feeling NO PAIN. Love from me, Linda and Patrick. Hope you are all well.

Missed Photos

2008-07-04T01:32:00.001-07:00

Thats it for awhile. It has taken 3 sessions and over 8 hrs uploading these photos. Due to Wi Fi connections and Vista(Microsoft) these sessions are becoming a bit much with everything else going on so I won't be updating the blog until I can get a hardwire connection in Tonga. Its just too frustrating and time consuming. The family on the hilltop(Bora Bora faintly in the background) are the Middletons, travelling companions from Vancouver. The 2 girls are Victoria from Denmark and Esther from Granada, Spain. Victoria's father Jens, owns a beautiful 70 ft sailboat and Esther is the first mate. The 3 master is the largest sailboat in the world(285 ft.), the Maltese Falcon. We were moored next to her in Papeete. Thats our friend, Craig from Bainbridge Island, Wa. snagging us bananas and Kristy and Pat kayaking on Moorea. Remember, you can double click on the photos the get better detail. Our best to all of you. John Linda and Pat

Mexico to Polynesia 2

2008-07-02T16:11:00.001-07:00

Raiatea with Bora Bora behind

Mexico to Polynesia

2008-07-02T14:07:00.000-07:00

Finally, another posting. As I have been sending text updates the last 3 months, this posting will be all photos. Hopefully this Wi Fi connection is fast enough. If not, I'll do another one from Bora Bora in the next week. The photos are in order starting with the crossing to the Marquesas, then the Tuamotus and on to the Society Islands of Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora . Love to all.

Side Trip to tequila

2008-03-13T11:42:00.000-07:00

Just had to slip in a few photos from our trip to the charming little town of Teuila. We rented a car and drove 5 hrs. from PV up through the mountains and across the plains of Jalisco to the center of the Tequila distilling world. Along the way we drove for hrs past the blue green fields of Agaves-the plant from which Tequila is made.

Upon arriving we found a lovely little hotel right on the Plaza for $35./night. The next night we moved up to a suite for a whopping $50.night. We had our little friend along, Red, who enjoyed his trip through the Jose Cuervo Distillery and having his photo taken with some of the town's founding fathers. During the 48 hrs. or so that we were there, we met and saw only 8 other Gringos and that was during the tour of the Cuervo distillery. It was very nice to experience a true Mexican town , not spoiled or influenced by outsiders. Even the fantastic museum had all of it's descriptions in Spanish.

The history of the drink, Tequila, is as much a part of Mexican history as the famous revolutionaries, Pancho Villa and Emilliano Zapata. It is the drink that has fueled bravado, love, song, patriotism and intertwines itself with everyday Mexican life. A fine Tequila is as delicious as a fine brandy, port or single malt scotch. Sip it and savor-never shoot it. UMM!!

On the way back to PV we stopped off at Juan and Marias at Punta Raza for a couple more days of their magic. We also had the chance to get together with Kathy and the inspiration for The Red Bastard, my bro, Ted. We enjoyed visiting with them a number of times while at the marina in PV.

Well, hasta la proxima. Pat arrives in a few hrs., Helene is here to help with the crossing, Linda and Rob head home within the week, we leave for Zihuatanejo in 48 hrs. and take the big jump in 1 week. Take care of yourselves, wish us luck. John, Linda, Rob, Pat and Helene.

Sorry about goofing off in Puerto Vallarta

2008-03-12T12:39:00.000-07:00

OK OK OK I'm sorry. Tied up to a dock for over a month made me(us) lazy. EXCUUUUUSE ME

We are now in Manzanillo anchored in front of Las Hadas Resort-where are you Bo Derek? The movie 10 was filmed here. How can we forget that scene of her running(in slomo) down the beach? Enough. While in PV, we had visitors, Linda's sis, Judy, her husband, David, Linda's son, Adam, his friend, Cam, Cam's mother, Ellen, a friend of Ellen's, Shelley and my daughter, Erin. So we were busy spending time, visiting, getting caught up and seeing a bit of the countryside.

During our 30+ days in PV, Linda and I got away to our little corner of Heaven, Punta Raza for 2 days of Maria's extrodinery cooking(her secret ingredient is love) and her husband, Juan's magical Margaritas. This little heaven has no electricity, a 2 mile beach where you are usually the only person on it, and the most extraordinery hospitality you CAN'T imagine. I could go on forever about this little jewel of a place. We also ran off into the mountains to visit the small town of Tequila where us Gringos were outnumbered 15,000 to 8. 1 day we were the only gringos in town. We ran into 6 others during a tour of the Jose Cuervo distillery the next day. We loved it. Even the museum literature was all in Spanish.

Another little slice of heaven was Yelapa, a little village on the water south of PV and accessible only by boat. We took, Adam, Cam, Ellen, Shelley and Erin there on Don Pedro for an overnighter. Ellen and Shelly found a lovely little hotel on the beach for about $70 and the rest of us spent the night on board. We had meals at tables sunk in the sand on the beach-no shirt, no shoes NO PROBLEMA. The food and the Margaritas were great!! 1 photo on this posting is Cam and me swimming out to Don Pedro with home made pies they sell on the beach-YUMMY. Magic in the Mouth!!

Well, this posting has taken over 2 hrs. and I have got to go. The connection keeps going off so time is spent logging back in etc. It's over 7 months since we departed Victoria and we can't beleive how the time has flown, even with a Leap Year Day in there!! Linda returns home in a week and Rob a day later. It wont be the same without them but there will be new times ahead. The anticipation of the crossing is looming large and I wouldn't be honest if I didn't admit to some fears about the unknown. Hopefully the weather won't be too bad and we'll have an adventurous yet safe crossing. It will probably take 23-25 days if the trade winds turn out to be as expected. I will be able to send updates to Theresa and she will send them on to you but I won't be updating the Blog for some time. Pat returns tomorrow from almost a month of chartering on Odyssius, a 98' sloop and Helene, a French woman (arriving here today) has agreed to assist us in the voyage so it will be just the 3 of us out there on the "wild blue". We plan to depart from Zihuatanejo (200 miles south) on the 20th (+or- a day). Think about us once in a while.

Until then, friends. Love from Me, Linda, Rob and Pat(in absentia)

Hello Kristy and Bye Bye Baja

2008-01-07T19:53:00.000-08:00

One in every crowd Jorge saying Hasta La Vista

Galley crew.

Surfer dude? Super senior surfer dude to you!

In the Jungle, New Years Eve. Too loud and lousy cocktails!

We look great, don't we!!

The twosteppers. Whos leading here?

La Paz

New Years

2008

Proud Papa

Dancin in the streets, New Years 2008
Tequila y Mariachi bar. Ask Kristy about how she won her red cowgirl hat!!

Takin a twirl with dad.

No way are you stiking me this this thing!!!!

Well hello, cowgirl! Jorge comes

to say Adios

Wheres the beach???

Moonrise over Isla Partida Hiking in Ensenada Grande Marina de La Paz sunset

This voyage is about 2 things, people and places. Places come naturally as we are visiting some beautiful and different locales as where people are what really make this experience special. We have just left La Paz and the Sea of Cortez after spending 6 weeks roaming around wonderful islands, villages, beaches and towns. It was sad to leave because this amazing area has become a part of us and will be with us forever.
Another reason it was tough to leave is because of the new friends we have made. My eldest daughter, Kristy, came to visit for Christmas and New Years and it was during an evening out that we met a wonderful couple, Jorge and Bonnie Morales. Jorge, originally from Mexico City is a Captain and pilot in the Mexican Navy and Bonnie, originally, from Ontario, Canada have been together for around 30 years. After we "closed the joint", we were invited back to their house for what was to become the first in a number of get togethers during the holiday season. By the time we left, Jan 5th, Bonnie put it best when she said, "Although you are new friends, it seems like you are old friends". Linda, Kristy, Rob and I (Pat was off on a weeks charter, partying till the bulls came home and working his ass off) enjoyed our times with them very much and they showed us a bit of La Paz that we probably would not have experienced. To top it all off, about 2 hours after we departed from La Paz, Jorge buzzed us in 1 of the helicopters he instructs in. As you can see from the images, he hovered just above the sea, about 70-80 ft. off our starboard side for about 4-5 minutes. It was amazing with the wash from the blades, the noise and the proximity of the chopper. Nothing like that had ever happened to any of us. I can't find the words to describe the thrill that it gave us all. WOW!!!!!!!!!!

The last 2 weeks have also been very special for me and Linda because Kristy chose to spend her Christmas and New Years with us. After missing her original flight to Loreto(not her fault as Alaska changed the flight times and she was not notified), we had to high tail it to La Paz in horrendous weather to meet her as there were no more flights into Loreto. We sailed almost 24 hrs. straight through 30540 knot winds, short, steep swells of 14-15 feet and wind whipped seas that had Don Pedro encrusted with salt spray. At times we were surfing over 13 knots and almost half of the boat was out of the water when it settled back into the trough of the swell. Happily, we got to La Paz in time to meet her when she arrived from the airport. After Christmas and a short time to rest up and for the winds to subside a little, we headed up to Isla Espiritu Santu for 4 days of snorkeling, hiking and beach time. Linda and I loved the time we got to have with her as it seems that once your child is out of school and on her own way through the world, you don't get many chances to hang out and spend quality time together. Then it was "back to La Paz "for New Years and what a New Years it was!!! Dancing to a Mexican country band on the sidewalk outside a bar called, Tequila and Mariachi. Kristy got hauled out of the audience to participate in a dancing contest. She showed em how Canadian girls can boogie.

Pat, in the meantime had accepted a crew position for a weeks charter on a luxurious 95 ft. sailboat, Odyssius. He did everything from making beds to mixing and serving cocktails for the owner, his wife and 4 friends. He was at their beck and call 18-20 hrs. a day for 7 days. They departed from La Paz and did a round trip to Cabo San Lucas where they spent New Years. He was a bit burned out by the time he got back but had a great time and put some hard earned cash in his pocket. You will have to ask him for details...my lips are sealed!

It was hard to say goodbye to Kristy because I might not see her for a long time and she has become an absolutely delightful, funny and charming woman. It seems like only yesterday....... I'm going to miss her very much. The next time I'll see her will be either Tahiti or New Zealand.

On Jan the 5th we depated La Paz for Bahia de los Muertos(Bay of the dead..yikes!) where we spent a restful night. We were up at 4 AM to get a good start for the 200 mile crossing of the southern Sea of Cortez to Mazatlan where we arrived at 10 AM the next morning. It was an uneventful crossing with very little wind and we are now in the Marina El Cid Resort complex complete with 2 pools, swim up bar and a golf course. After doing a little boat maintanence and visiting the old part of Mazatlan, we will push off for a 2 week long cruise down the coast to Puerto Vallarta stopping in a couple of charming little coves and pueblos along the way. Linda's sister, Judy and her husband Dave are planning to be there at the same time and her son Adam will visit for a week also.

Thats it for now. Gotta go now! Its happy hour at pool # 1, followed by happy hour at pool # 2 and then by happy hour in the main hotel bar. Don't ya jus luv it!!

Happy New Year to all of you, we hope you all have a happy and prosporoue 2008.

Love from me, Linda, Pat and Rob.

Loreto to Bahia Conception and back

2007-12-20T16:36:00.000-08:00

Loeto and the mission bell tower

Posada Las Flores, Loreto

1 of the most beautiful Inns we have ever stayed in. Thank you, Valda

Don Pedro at Peurto Escondido. Photo courtesy of Rob.

2 Humpback whale close by on our way to San Juanico. There were 2 more on the other side of Don Pedro at the same time.

The gang at Playa Cocos, George, Martha, Butch and Diana (hiding behind the svelte Butch)

The Lindblad Explorations/National Geo. pocket cruise ship and our dinner hosts for a fabulous unexpected feast on the beach. Complete with silver dinner ware, bar wenches et all. A magical night to say the least.

Hello again from a very cold hotel room in Loreto. Yup, cold!! Well, 68 F but it feels like 50 with the 20 MPH wind. Linda and I are taking a 2 day break off the boat and Kristy flies in tomorrow from Vancouver for a 2 week visit. After talking to other cruisers, we had to keep going North to the Bahia de Conception, a sea within a sea with many beautiful anchorages and beaches about 60 miles N of Loreto. The first night we dropped the hook in a protected bay called San Juanico. The wind was howling so we decided to stay another day. Low and behold, a Lindblad Explorations/National Geographic pocket cruise ship came into OUR anchorage. Their policy is to apologise for interrupting our solitude(are you kidding, Pat and Robbie were already speculating about the female crew members) and invite us all to dinner..which they did. Within 5 ft of our hitting the beach in our tender, 2 gorgeous female crew members met us with trays full of cocktails and warm genuine welcoming words. Dinner(elegantly prepared and served on the beach..silver heating trays, seats etc.) was seared Ahi Tuna stakes and exotically Bar B Q'd chicken breasts with all the accoutrement's(is the really such a word?, who cares about the spelling!). After dessert there was astronomy 101 on the beach with the astronomer who accompanies the cruise, a bonfire, whole made SMORS and songs..no Michael row the boat ashore or Kumbaya..more like La Bamba etc. What a treat and thrill for us all!!

On to Conception Bay and beaches like Santispac, Playa Cocos, Playa Coyote etc. all lovely sandy beaches with clear blue/green water BUT CCCOOOLLLDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was OK when the sun was out but when it dropped, it got cold fast. Nevertheless, we met some great people who spend the winter there in their RV's. They had us over for appetizers and drinks and we had them on board Don Pedro for the same. There was a dance Sat, night at a local rest./bar called Ana's with great music and a bunch of loaded Gringos. We all danced, ate and drank until the place closed at 10 PM, yeh, 10 PM..Baha Midnight. It started at 5 so it was all right. A great time was had by all except Robbie(sorry, he has changed his name to Rob) who slashed his foot on some sharp object in the water. Some people will do anything to get out of dancing!!

Meeting George, Martha, Butch, Diana, Harold and Judy was the highlight. What a great bunch of people. Most of them had never been on a sailboat before so it was a treat for them. Our last night they invited us to a feast with things we hadn't had in a long time, 6 different appetizers, Pork Roast with apple sauce, Beef Roast, 2 salads, 4-5 different veggies, 2 home made pies and a FEW cocktails. Thank you all again, very, very much.

That day a unanimous decision was made, head SOUTH..NOW.It's too F_____n cold. So, after a night in San Juanico(hoping that our friends on the cruise ship would reappear) we are back in Loreto. After Kristy sees a bit of Loreto we are again heading south in search of warmer weather. Until then, we all wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Our thoughts are with you. We may be on the trip of our lives but we do miss you all and wish that we could jet home to be with you during this time. John, Linda, Pat and Rob..and the Red Bastard

Just some more photos from the voyage to Loreto

2007-12-06T09:00:00.000-08:00

Just another Baja Sunset. We haven't seen the green flash yet but we know it's out there.

2nd row left photo is a typical bay on the backside of 1 of the islands just North of La Paz. They all have golden sand beaches at the head of the bay and blue/green crystal clear water. Thats Don Pedro in there. Most of the time we had these bays to ourselves or had to share them with 2-3 other boats. We spent the days sunning, swimming snorkeling and just being very lazy..why not, thats what this is all about. Top right lower photo is El Archo, the famous Cabo San Lucas landmark. It is the last part of the Baja Penninsula and denotes the separation point for the Pacific and the Sea of Cortes. Top center is Bahia Santa Maria with surf in background. You can double click on any photo to enlarge. Check out the bull on the hull!! Check out the Jock in the yellow kayak!!! Top right is typical movie night scene. We have approx. 200 movies on board, 5 computers, 4 DVD players-so much "stuff" for people who wanted to get away from it all. The truth is we all fell prey to the ridiculous low prices of gadgetry in S California and couldn't help ourselves.

The next 4 days call for thunderstorms in the Loreto area..lets hope lightening will strike elsewhere. That all for now, the next posting will probably be in about 10 days. Hello to all from all of us. Just realized that if I label where the photos are placed(eg. top left photo etc.), they don't relate to that positioning when I publish the posting to the blog so ignore the descriptions as to where the photos are placed. Most of them are self explanatery. John

Catching Up

2007-12-05T15:55:00.000-08:00

We finally discovered the Red Bastard. He was stuffed amoungst the plumbing in the forward head in 2 of those Irish hats in the photo. From here on in he is one of the illustrious crew. We kept getting emails from him saying,"Let me out, I just wanna have a Margarita and enjoy the sailing life". So he goes everywhere with us.

Laundry man. You didn't know he had this in him, right. Yes ladies, he can do it himself. We bought a little portable hand crank washing mashine that uses little water and takes 2 minutes tumbling to wash and 1 minute to rinse..hang to dry.

Isla Espiritu Santu just north of La Paz

Our buddy from Catalina Island

Wolleyball anyone. Yup the RB goes with us to all sporting events.

Robbie, Aqua Man Come on, Robbie, we are almost there.

Anchored beyond the surf break at Bahia Santa Maria about 400 miles south of San Diego. We had to dingy in through the surf break..sometimes not too successfully. Just ask Linda

Arriving San Francisco

The motly crew as we prepare for departure from Deep Cove

Sorry about getting this up and running so late. Here is a fast catch up. 6 of us departed Deep Cove marina near Sidney on Sept. 5th. Me(John), daughter(Erin), her friend Jillian, Pat(nephew), Nelson and Robbie(good friends), after a great, raucious farewell party thrown by our great friends, Jim and Helen Dunlop. We arrived at the Inner Harbor of Victoria 5 hrs. later and proceeded to have another 35-40 friends stop by to wish us their best, cry, tell us to "get out of town" and party with us. Early on the morning of the 6th we were on our way on a beautiful day heading up the Strait of Juan de Fuca towards the great equalizer, the Pacific Ocean and it's west coast.

We soon started feeling the growing swells and after all the excitment, it was starting to take it's toll on a few crew so we pulled behind Tatoosh Island near Neah Bay, Washington at the entrance to the Striats. The pacific would have to wait until tomorrow to get it's chance at us.

The next day came with grey mist, fog and sloppy seas. After motoring for about 6 hrs., the sun broke out, the wind came up of the NW and we raised the sails. It blew about 17-20 knots from that direction for 4 days, the sailing(night and day) was great and we were heading SOUTH!!!!

The crew were great, 1 case of minor sea sickness that lasted only a few hours.

We finally lost the wind and not having enough fuel to get to San Francisco, we headed for Eureka Ca. Hell of a town, Eureka!! Laid back ex timber town that has fallen on hard times. Friendly folk and a great marina. I must say that marinas in California are mostly run by the municipalities and they are great, cheap and secure. We paid an average of $23.50/night and that included power and all the water you could use. It would be a minimum of double plus power in Canada. But I digress, fueled up in Eureka, reprovisioned and headed off to San Fran.

It was a light wind, 24 hr. trip that had us passing under the Golden Gate bridge in the beautiful fading light of the late afternoon. We started celebrating 10 miles out and were "very happy" by the time we managed to find a spot. Had a great but short time in San Fran. except I was pickpoceted, losing all credit cards, ID and quite a whack of ca$h. Amy, my friend and long time right hand uber person at Harlequin came to my rescue. I called her collect and she had everything cancelled within 25-30 minutes. She wasn't at the office, however, over the years she had all my credit card #'s committed to memory so she could do what she did so fast. Amy, again, thank you so very much!!
-On to Santa Cruz and Monteray about 80-90 miles S of San Fran. After a couple of days in those ports, having fun, keeping the boys..and girls out of trouble, we wanted WARM weather. After all, thats what this trip is all about!! We headed out for a 2 night-3 day leg to Santa Barbara. The winds were great most of the way and we pulled into a fabulous municipal marina for a week of sun, sand, volleyball, bicycling and enjoying this wonderful town( 1 of the best California has to offer-I could live there..never know, just might some day!

Here, Linda joined us and Erin and Jillian departed for a new life in Montreal. They thought that the trip would be what they wanted but as we all did when we finally got free from all those years in school, all we wanted was total freedom with NO parental control. I just couldn't let go yet. I backed Erin in her decision although I miss her and wanted to spend more time with her than I got. She is doing great after a hard start(she was robbed in LA and lost all her hard earned cash she had saved for the trip. She has a full time job and she and Jillian share a new appartment in a nice suburb about 15 minutes from downtown. We both learned a lot about each other from that experience and look forward to being together again sometime in the near future.

We got away again and headed for 1 of the channel islands off of Santa Barbara. After a couple of days of gunkholing we came back to the mainland and continued harbor hopping until Long Beach where we fell in love with a little marina called Alamitos Bay. We arrived in the middle of a TV show being shot in the marina. Jimmy Smits is starring in a new series called Cane and there were camers, lights and security everywhere. No one wnated to discover us and sign us to a contract so wee took off to Santa Catalina Island in time to partake in their annual Buccaneers Days festival. 3 days of wenches, grog and wannabe pirates. As you can imagine, there were cannons going off all the time. Back to Newport Beach where we picked up a mooring bouy for $5./night-thats right, $5/night. We stayed a week and split for San Diego where we were given recipricol priveledges by the San Diego Yacht Club..hoity toity!!! However, San Diego was on fire at the time so every morning the boat was covered in ash. We did, however, have a great time and drop about $5,000. more on boat stuff we needed. We didn't know we needed this stuff until we saw it and everybody else said, "Hey, Canuuck, you need this stuff" OK, I'll buy it!!

Finally, 8 days later we headed for the boarder without Nelson as he went home for personal reasons. 24 hrs. later we entered Ensenada harbor in fog so thick that we didn't see the marina until we were 50 ft. from the dock. A big shrimpboat leaving the harbor without his radar on almost ended the trip for us. He turned at the last moment.whoeeeee! DICKHEAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!

3 days later after clearing with the officials, bailing Pat and Robbie out of trouble..those boys, we took off for Bahia Tortuga, the armpit of the Baja. We needed fuel and a reality check, we got both. After a 2 day rest it was off to Bahia Santa Maria which is a big, beautiful, almost desrted bay with a 20 mile sandy beach, surf and warm clear water. After 5 hrs. in the water, Robbie had grown gills behind his ears and Pat had started a merman tail. We frolicked in the surf(ask Linda about her delightful dingy dunking), drank cold beers, ate fresh fish and said"Cabo, here we come".

Cabo San Lucas, palm trees, crystal clear warm water, action for the boys(they were getting a little crazy) and a needed rest after 9days on the go from San Diego. From here on we don't have to"get there" because we"are there"! Were cruising from here on. As this is the most expensive marina on the west coast of the world, $4./ft. or $168. US/night, we spent 1 very looonngg 24 hrs. washing, refueling, taking on water, provisioning and fixing whatever needed to be fixed then split for the anchorage, "the office"(a great bar/restaurant right on the beach with music, tequila, babes and everyone trying to sell you STUFF. We had fun for a couple of days, Pat and Robbie "did" Cabo Wabo and Cabo Wabo did Pat-yup, a header off the dock and into the water. He still claims it was a banana peel but we know it was the tequila two step.

We had had enough after 2 days of constant party party party, OK everbody, dreeenking contest, very LOUD music etc. so we headed up the east coast of the Baja-What are we doing going NORTH again? This whole trip is about going south. The Sea of Cortes lay before us..to the north so off we went. After 2 days(all glorious weather by now and if it wasn't do you think I'd say otherwise?) we arrived at Los Frailles where friends, Chistine and Terry are building a house on a magnificant hilltop lot. We joined them for drinks, dinner and more drinks before being pointed in the direction of Don Pedro, anchored off their beach. 2 days later we arrived in La Paz, the centre of the boating world for the Sea of Cotres. Nelson rejoined us here and we hung out at a great marina for a week doing what was necessary to prepare for 8-9 days cruising some of the most azure blue/green clear warm wonderful wwwwwwaters there are, anywhere. There are 2 islands about 15 milea N of La Paz, Isla Espiritu Santu and Isla Partida. Combined they have almost 20 bays, all with golden sand and green/blue waters. Snorkeling, swimming, sunning..everything beginning with a S is swonderful there. During the last 3 weeks we have been enjoying this cruising ground however the weather the last week has been grey, a little cooler, it actually rained for about 8 hrs. and very windy. A very large low pressure area off of the Baja has disturbed the weather pattern for about a week and yesterday(Dec.4th) it finally moved on and things are back to normal.

We are now in Loreto, the original capital of Spanish Mexico where the Jesuits started their string of Missions. Its a charming town of about 10,000 people, very friendly and not a lot of gringos. Linda and I are off the boat for 2 days and the boys have Don Pedro to themselves anchered off of Isla Coronado about 6 miles from here. They get shore leave in 2 days so they can do some howling and let off some steam etc.We are now up to date. I'll try to edit this posting in the near future so the photos match the text but right now, THATS ALL FOLKS.